Thursday, December 19, 2013
bum.” Suddenly we were in absolute tropical heat at the bottom of a five
mile long hill and up ahead we saw the lights of old San Antonio. You
had the feeling all this used to be Mexican territory indeed. Houses by
the side of the road were different, gas stations beater, fewer lamps.
Neal delightedly took the wheel to roll us into San Antonio. We entered
town in a wilderness of Mexican rickety southern shacks without cellars
and old rocking chairs on the porch. We stopped at a mad gas station to
get a grease job. Mexicans were standing around in the hot light of the
overhead bulbs that were blackened by valley summerbugs, reaching down
into a soft-drink box and pulling out beer bottles and throwing the money
to the attendant. Whole families lingered around doing this. All around
there were shacks and drooping trees and a wild cinnamon smell in the
air. Frantic teenage Mexican girls came by with boys. “Hoo!” yelled
Neal. “Sí! Mañana!” Music was coming from all sides, and all kinds of
music. Frank and I drank several bottles of beer and got high. We were
already almost out of America and yet definitely in it and in the middle
of where it’s maddest. Hotrods blew by. San Antonio, ah-haa! “Now men
listen to me---we might as well goof a couple of hours in San Antone
and so we will go and find a hospital clinic for Frank’s arm and you and
I Jack will cut around and git these streets dug---look at those houses
across the street, you can see right into the front room and all the
purty daughters lying around with True Love magazines, whee! Come, let’s
go!” We drove around aimlessly awhile and asked people for the nearest
hospital clinic. It was near downtown, where things looked more sleek
and American, several semi-skyscrapers and many neons and chain
drugstores yet with cars crashing through from the dark around town as
if there were no traffic laws. We parked the car in the hospital
driveway and I went with Frank to see an interne while Neal stayed in
the car and changed. The hall of the hospital was full of poor Mexican
women, some of them pregnant, some of them sick or bringing their little
sick kiddies. It was sad. I thought of poor Bea Franco and what she was
doing now. Frank had to wait an entire hour till an intern came along
and looked at his swollen arm. There was a name
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