Friday, December 27, 2013
my tragic Route Six—more to come of it, too. In Newburgh it had stopped
raining, I walked down to the river, and among all things I had to ride
back to NY in a bus with a delegation of schoolteachers coming back from
a weekend in the mountains- - chatter chatter blah-blah and me swearing for
all the time and money I’d wasted, and telling myself “I wanted to go
west and here I’ve been all day and into the night going up and down,
north and south, like something that can’t get started.” And I swore I’d
be in Chicago tomorrow; and made sure of that, taking a bus to Chicago,
spending most of my money, and didn’t give a damn, just as long as I’d
be in that damned Chicago tomorrow. The bus left at 2 o’ clock in the
morning from the 34th St. bus station sixteen hours after I’d more or less
passed it on my way up to Route Six. Sheepishly my foolish ass was
carried west. But at least I was headed there at last. I won’t describe
the trip to Chicago; it was an ordinary bus trip with crying babies and
sometimes hot sun and countryfolk getting on at one Penn town after
another, and so on, till we got on the plain of Ohio and really rolled,
up by Ashtabula and straight across Indiana in the night for Chicago. I
arrived in Chicago quite early in the morning, got a room in the Y and
went to bed with a very few dollars in my pocket as a consequence of my
foolishness. I dug Chicago after a good day’s sleep. The wind from Lake
Michigan, the beans, bop at the Loop, long walks around South Halsted and
North Clark and one long walk after midnight into the jungles where a
cruising car followed me as a suspicious character. At this time, 1947,
bop was going like mad all over America, but it hadn’t developed to what
it is now. The fellows at the Loop blew, but with a tired air, because
bop was somewhere between its Charley Parker Ornithology period and
another period that really began with Miles Davis. And as I sat there
listening to that sound of the night which it has come to represent for
all of us, I thought of all my friends from one end of the country to
the other and how they were really all in the same vast backyard doing
something so frantic and rushing-about beneath. And for the first time
in my life, the following afternoon, I went into the west. It was a warm
and beautiful day for hitchhiking. To get out of
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