Tuesday, December 24, 2013
dry stretches leading to Mexican mountains in the south. Then we swung
north to the Arizona mountains, Flagstaff, Clifftown. I had a book with
me I stole from a Hollywood stall, Le Grand Meulnes of Alain-Fournier,
but I preferred reading the American landscape as we went along. Every
bump, rise and stretch in it mystified my longing. In inky night we
crossed New Mexico immersed; at gray dawn it was Dalhart, Texas; in the
bleak Sunday afternoon we rode through one Oklahoma flat-town after
another; at nightfall it was Kansas. The bus roared on. I was going home
in October. In Wichita I got off the bus to hit the head. There was a
young man in a loud Kansas herringbone suit saying so long to his minister father. A minute later I saw an eye watching me from a hole in
the john booth as I sat. A note was slipped through. “I offer you
anything on this side if you will put it through.” I caught a glimpse of
a loud Kansas herringbone suit through the hole. “No thanks” I said
through the hole. What a sad Sunday night for the Kansas minister’s son;
what Wichita doldrums. In a small Kansa town a clerk said to me
“There’s nothing to do around here.” I looked down the end of the street
at the infinite spaces beyond the last tumbleshack. We arrived in
St.Louis at noon. I took a walk down by the Mississippi River and
watched the logs that came floating from Montana in the North---grand
odyssiac logs of our continental dream. Old steamboats with their
scrollwork more so scrolled and withered by weathers sat in the mud
inhabited by rats. Great clouds of afternoon overtopped the Mississippi
Valley. The bus roared through Indiana cornfields that night; the moon
illuminated the ghostly gathered husks; it was almost Halloween. I made
the acquaintance of a girl and we necked all the way to Indianapolis.
She was near sighted. When we got off to eat I had to lead her by the
hand to the lunch counter. She bought my meals, my sandwiches were all
gone; in exchange I told her long stories. She was coming from
Washington State where she spent the summer picking apples. Her home was
in an upstate New York farm. She invited me to come there. We made a
date to meet at a New York hotel anyway. She got off at Columbus, Ohio,
and I slept all the way to
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