Tuesday, December 24, 2013
Pittsburgh. I was wearier than I’d been for years and years. I had three
hundred and sixty five miles yet to hitch hike to New York and a dime
in my pocket. I walked five miles to get out of Pittsburgh and two
rides, an apple truck and a big trailer truck, took me to Harrisburg in
the soft Indian Summer rainy night. I cut right along. I wanted to get
home. It was the night of the Ghost of the Susquehanna. I’d never
dreamed I’d get so hung up. In the first place I didn’t know it but I
was walking back to Pittsburgh on an older highway. Neither did the
Ghost. The Ghost was a shriveled, little old man with a paper satchel
who claimed he was heading for “Canady.” He walked very fast, commanding
me to follow, and said there was a bridge up ahead we could cross. He
was about sixty years old; talked incessantly of the meals he had, how
much butter they gave him for pancakes, how many extra slices of bread,
how the old men had called him from a porch of a charity home in
Maryland and invited him to stay for the weekend, how he took a nice
warm bath before he left; how he found a brand new hat by the side of
the road in Virginia and that was it on its head; how he hit every Red
Cross in town and showed them his veteran World War 1 credentials; how
they treated him; how the Harrisburg Red Cross was not worthy of the
name; how he managed in this hard world and sometimes sold neckties. But
as far as I could see he was just a semi-respectable walking hobo of
some kind who covered the entire Eastern Wilderness on foot hitting Red
Cross offices and sometimes bumming on Main Street corners for a dime.
We were bums together. We walked seven miles along the mournful
Susquehanna. It is a terrifying river. It has bushy cliffs on both sides
that lean like hairy ghosts over the unknown waters. Inky nights cover
all. Sometimes from the railyards across the river rises a great red
locomotive flare that illuminates the horrid cliffs. It was drizzling
too. The little man said he had a fine belt in his satchel and we
stopped for him to fish it out. “I got me a fine belt here
somewheres---got it in Frederick, Maryland. Damn, now did I leave that
thing on the counter at Fredericksburg? “You mean Frederick.” “No, no
Fredericksburg, Virginia!” He was always talking about Frederick Maryland
and Fred-
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